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Erte - Romain de TirtoffL'hiver by Erté1925
1925
About the Item
Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 Russian-French
L'hiver
(The winter)
Signed "Erté" (lower right)
Inscribed "No. 356" (en verso)
Gouache and gold on paper
Erté crafts an elegant costume in gold and black, titledL'hiver for a character in the production of Mah-Jongg.This performance is inspired by the 19th-century Chinese tile-based game that blends skill, strategy and luck, and has gained global popularity. The costume's title, translated to Winter, corresponds to one of the four seasons represented in the game's tiles.
The character dons a coat that evokes the attire of a distinguished traditional Chinese individual, designed to reflect the chill suggested by the costume's title. Comprising four visible layers in alternating black and gold, the coat is adorned with intricate geometric patterns and features voluminous sleeves. The character's face subtly emerges above these layers, crowned by an exquisite headpiece adorned with flowing golden tassels.
Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city's bustling nightlife. Erté's expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper's Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
Painted 1925
Paper: 14 3/8" high x 10 3/8" wide
Frame: 20 3/4" high x 16 3/4" wide x 3/4" deep
Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans
Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024
- Creator:Erte - Romain de Tirtoff (1892 - 1990, Russian)
- Creation Year:1925
- Dimensions:Height: 20.75 in (52.71 cm)Width: 16.75 in (42.55 cm)Depth: 0.625 in (1.59 cm)
- Medium:
- Movement & Style:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Gallery Location:New Orleans, LA
- Reference Number:
Erte - Romain de Tirtoff
Erté, Romain de Tirtoff, (1892–1990) was a Russian-born French artist and designer who is equally famous for his elegant fashion designs and his artwork, both of which capture the art deco period in which he worked. Diversely talented, Erté was born in Saint Petersburg to a distinguished family with roots tracing back to 1548. After moving to Paris, he secured his first substantial contract with Harper's Bazaar magazine, and thus launched an illustrious career that included designing costumes and stage sets. Between 1915–1937, Erte designed over 200 covers for Harper's Bazaar, and his illustrations would also appear in such publications as Illustrated London News, Cosmopolitan, Ladies' Home Journal, and Vogue. Erté flourished and was renowned in an array of fields, including fashion, jewelry, graphic arts, costume and set design for film, theater, and opera, and interior decor.
After designing apparel for the French dancer Gaby Deslys, Erté went on to design costumes, program designs, and sets which were featured in the Ziegfeld Follies of 1923, many productions of the Folies Bergère, and George White's Scandals. On Broadway, the celebrated French chanteuse Irène Bordoni wore Erté's designs. His delicate figures and sophisticated, glamorous designs are instantly recognizable, and his ideas and art still influence fashion into the 21st century.
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