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A Close Look at art-deco Jewelry
Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.
The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.
However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)
While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.
Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.
A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.
Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right wedding-rings for You
Find memorable jewelry to mark your special day — a collection of antique and vintage wedding rings is waiting for you on 1stDibs.
Wedding rings have symbolized love and devotion for centuries. The pharaohs of Ancient Egypt believed that wedding rings were symbols of eternity. The “ouroboros” rings of the era, which depicted a serpent swallowing its own tail, represented renewal and eternal life — a motif at the center of the Serpenti collection from Italian fine jewelry house Bulgari. Preferred materials in the production of wedding bands have changed over time; metals such as iron in early Rome replaced the wedding rings of bone and ivory that came before them. But the circle has always symbolized an unending pledge of love to one’s partner.
In the case of Cartier’s Trinity wedding ring, the “trinity knot” depicts unity and eternity. The legendary French brand’s minimalist Love wedding band is inseparable from immutable love, in that it joined the iconic Love bracelet, which initially could only be unlocked with its accompanying gold-vermeil screwdriver. Wedding rings designed by Tiffany & Co., one of the most prominent purveyors of luxury goods in the United States, have also long been popular for the newly betrothed.
Although wedding bands were traditionally given to women, the practice of men donning wedding rings became popular during the mid-20th century, as devoted husbands wanted to wear a symbol of their love when they shipped off to war. Wedding rings are often worn by both partners today, and men’s engagement rings are becoming more fashionable too (see our engagement ring buying guide).
On 1stDibs, shop diamond eternity bands, gold wedding rings, diamond wedding rings and other antique and vintage rings from the world’s best jewelry dealers.
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