Van Cleef and Arpels Alhambra
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Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Collection
From the moment the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection launched, it was a sensation.
During the late 1960s, fine jewelry changed. Even the most haute of haute French houses expanded their inventories to include more daytime jewels to match the increasingly casual look of women’s fashion and to suit the 9-to-5 schedule of many who were joining the workforce. In 1969, Cartier launched its diamond-free gold Love bracelet. One year before that, Jacques Arpels came up with the all-gold Alhambra necklace.
Jacques — the nephew of Estelle Arpels, who founded Van Cleef & Arpels with her husband, Alfred, in 1906 — liked to say, “To be lucky, you must believe in luck.” This mantra is embodied in the four-leaf clover motif, which can be found in sketches in the house’s archives dating to the 1910s. The quatrefoil shape also has architectural resonance, found in Gothic and Renaissance structures and, of course, in such Moorish buildings as the Alhambra palace in Granada, Spain, which gave its name to the Van Cleef & Arpels line.
The first Alhambra jewel was a long gold chain with 20 gold clovers, the surface of each creased and edged in gold beads. In 1971, the house began making the motif in colorful opaque hard stones, including malachite, lapis lazuli, onyx, coral, tiger’s-eye and turquoise. Today, pieces incorporating these stones and a beaded border are referred to as Vintage Alhambra.
The easy-to-wear necklaces were exactly what women wanted to elevate their button-down blouses and wrap dresses. The jewels’ appeal spanned decades and generations. In April 1969, the 26-year-old Swedish actress Britt Ekland donned the original Alhambra gold style for the cover of Vogue. French actress Romy Schneider was around 36 when she sported an onyx and gold version in the provocative 1974 French film Le mouton enragé (Love at the Top), depicting relationships during the sexual revolution. Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, stepped onto the red carpet at the BAFTA Film Awards in 2020 wearing a Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklace and matching earrings. The iconic designs were immediately recognizable to serious jewelry lovers and casual fans alike.
Van Cleef & Arpels for sale on 1stDibs
One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.
The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpel. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)
Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.
But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.
Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.
Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022The term Van Cleef Alhambra means a piece produced by the company Van Cleef & Arpels that features one or more four-leaf clover shapes. It is one of the most notable motifs used by the French jewelry house. Find a variety of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Van Cleef & Arpels is so expensive because it is a well-known company that has a fantastic reputation. Van Cleef & Arpels are universally renowned for high quality jewelry with a focus on detail. High-profile fans of the French jewelry house over the years have included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor and many more. Find an extraordinary range of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.
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