Vintage Aldo Cipullo Cartier 18k Gold Coral Necklace
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:185.6 g
- Dimensions:Width: 0.5 in (12.7 mm)Length: 21 in (533.4 mm)
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1972
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Beverly Hills, CA
- Reference Number:
Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
In a jewelry-design career spanning just over two decades, Aldo Cipullo created a portfolio of iconic pieces. And decades after his death, his most famous, the Cartier Love bracelet, remains a best seller.
A life devoted to jewelry seemed preordained for Cipullo, who was born in Naples in 1935 and raised in Rome. His father, Giuseppe, manufactured costume jewelry, and Cipullo, the eldest of five siblings, began selling goods for the family business at age 15.
In 1959, Cipullo left postwar Italy for New York City. He had found the right place at the right time to ply his prodigious talent and navigated between some of the most prestigious jewelers situated on the city’s most glittering thoroughfares, 57th Street and Fifth Avenue. Cipullo’s first stop was the workshop of David Webb, a favorite among the mid-century beau monde. Webb, who was one of America’s most influential and best-loved jewelry designers, became a mentor for the new arrival, advising him to call himself a designer despite his bench jeweler job description.
Tiffany & Co. came next. Cipullo alighted at the design studio in 1964, becoming — along with Sonia Younis, Don Berg and Donald Claflin — part of a youthquake that brought fresh ideas to the stately American brand.
At Tiffany, Cipullo came into his own as a designer with an original point of view, developing a facility across a broad swathe of motifs and inspirations that included lifelike florals, stylized African animals and masks, modern geometries — and hardware, expressed in a series of key-shaped brooches that offer the first glimpse of a theme he would return to later. By the end of the 1960s, he was designing some of Tiffany’s crown jewels, pieces in its Blue Book high-jewelry collection, often using lapis, coral or turquoise. These colorful opaque gems were among the materials that would become hallmarks of his work.
According to the designer’s brother Renato Cipullo — a coauthor with jewelry journalist Vivienne Becker on Cipullo: Making Jewelry Modern (Assouline) — when the term of a two-year contract with Tiffany neared its end in 1969, the brand passed on a gold bracelet design Aldo presented to the house. Though Tiffany wasn’t ready to raise Cipullo’s profile, another suitor would soon pick up the piece and give it, and in turn Cipullo, a major public platform. He struck a deal with Michael Thomas, president of Cartier New York, to carry some of his designs — including the new bracelet — exclusively.
Becker recounts the history of the Cartier Love bracelet in the book: Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. The Love bracelet combined hardware with elements of symbolic Victorian jewelry and the chastity belt, plus the ritual of meaningful adornment.
The bracelet, along with its designer, was just the tonic that Cartier needed at the start of the 1970s, a moment when the venerable brand was seeking an injection of youthful jet-set glamour. Cipullo’s winning streak with the brand continued, even as he designed for his own studio, Aldo Cipullo Ltd., which he established in the early part of the decade.
The Love design — which also yielded a ring and a necklace — was not Cipullo’s sole hardware-inspired jewelry for Cartier; his unisex Juste un Clou (“just a nail”) bracelet takes the form of a curved nail. When he died, at the age of 48, from a double heart attack, Cipullo was only getting started. Nevertheless, he left a profound legacy.
Find vintage Aldo Cipullo Cartier jewelry today on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Beverly Hills, CA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.
- Vintage Jean Dinh Van Lapis Lazuli Bead Gold Menottes NecklaceBy Jean Dinh VanLocated in Beverly Hills, CAVintage Jean Dinh Van Lapis Lazuli Bead Gold Menottes Necklace. Menottes is French for handcuffs. The gold handcuff motif serves as the clasp. T...Category
Vintage 1970s French Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsLapis Lazuli, Gold
- Bulgari Necklace Coral GoldBy BulgariLocated in Beverly Hills, CADESIGNER: Bulgari CIRCA: 1980s MATERIALS: 18K Yellow Gold GEMSTONE: Coral, Diamond WEIGHT: 208.3 grams MEASUREMENTS: 30" x 1/2" HALLMARKS: Bvlgari An amazing Bulgari necklace made of the coral beads and 18k gold. The beads of great quality are glossy and bright. Every second bead alternates with the gold rondelles embellished with diamonds. The clasp is designed as a gold oval bead with the rows of diamonds channel set. The clasp can be worn upfront as a pendant. This Bulgari necklace is long enough to be doubled around a neck. Being carefully selected by the Bulgari jewelers...Category
Vintage 1980s Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Coral, 18k Gold
- Tabbah Coral Gold NecklaceBy TabbahLocated in Beverly Hills, CADesigner: Joseph Tabbah Materials: 18 karat Yellow Gold Weight: 72.4 grams Measurement: 39" x 5/8" Gemstones: Coral Hallmarks: Tabbah, 750 A gorgeous Tabbah coral bead and 18k g...Category
Late 20th Century Chain Necklaces
MaterialsCoral, Gold, 18k Gold
- Coral Necklace 14k Gold, Circa 1970sLocated in Beverly Hills, CAA fine coral necklace made in 14k gold, circa 1970s. The necklace features coral beads and textured hollow gold oval links. The coral has a tender salmon pink color that matches w...Category
Vintage 1970s Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsCoral, 14k Gold
- 1950s French Carnelian Beaded 18k Gold Chain NecklaceLocated in Beverly Hills, CAThis Carnelian Gemstone Beaded 18k Gold Chain Necklace is a striking and versatile accessory that radiates warmth and sophistication. Th...Category
Vintage 1950s French Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsCarnelian, 18k Gold
- David Webb Gold Coin Necklace Diamond Veinte PesosBy David WebbLocated in Beverly Hills, CADesigner: David Webb Materials: 18K Yellow Gold & Platinum Gemstone: Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Weight: 57.8 grams Measurement: Chain - 15" long; Pendant - diameter - 1" Hallmarks: David Webb, 18K, Plat Product details: An 18k gold and platinum necklace by David Webb featuring a twenty pesos (Veinte Pesos) coin dated 1959. The coin is framed in gold and features two platinum and diamond loops, connecting the pendant to the chain. The latter matches the color of the coin’s gold, creating a unified piece. The chain is curb link with the oval elongated links. This Viente pesos necklace...Category
Late 20th Century Unknown Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
- Emilio Certified Natural Jade Beads NecklaceBy Emilio!Located in New York, NYMain stone: 53 jadeite Approximately 10mm each 52 pineapple cut white diamonds 1 pearl 1 sapphire Setting: white diamonds totaling approximately 2.00 carats From Emilio Jewelry, a w...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsJade
- French 1960s Cultured Pearl 18 Karat Yellow Gold Double Row NecklaceLocated in Poitiers, FRNecklace of round cultured pearls white orient, it is formed of a double row retained by a rectangular clasp in 18 karat yellow gold, eagle head hallmark, ratchet and safety "8". Dia...Category
Vintage 1960s French Retro Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsPearl, Cultured Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Estate 173 Grams Natural Unthread Coral NecklaceLocated in Napoli, ITRare Coral Beauty This outstanding massive Coral necklace would fit a queen! Beautiful quality mid-century age, full of charm, natural untreated, no dye, no wax filling, 1960 ca, Ita...Category
Vintage 1950s Italian Contemporary Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsCoral, Jade, 18k Gold
- Sterling Silver Agate Poise Collar Bead NecklaceLocated in London, GBThe Ornate Poise Collar necklace in sterling silver with chunky agate rondelle beads is carefully handcrafted in our North London studio. Each sterling silver link is handmade to hol...Category
2010s British Contemporary Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsAgate, Silver, Sterling Silver
- Ico & the Bird Fine Jewelry Chrysoprase Bead and Peridot 22 Karat Gold NecklaceBy Ico & the Bird Fine JewelryLocated in Los Angeles, CAA gorgeous, bright green necklace made from natural chrysoprase. Perfect to pair with other necklaces or wear on its own. Chrysoprase beads graduate from 7mm to 9mm. Measures 16"...Category
2010s American Artisan Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsPeridot, 22k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Multicolor South Sea Pearl NecklaceBy Tiffany & Co.Located in New Orleans, LAOutstanding in quality, this strand of South Sea pearls from the beloved Tiffany & Co. exhibits a wide array of colors. Displaying hues ranging from lustrous white and shades of gray...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Modern Beaded Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, South Sea Pearl, Platinum