Hermes 'Chain d'Ancre' Vintage Gold Link Necklace
About the Item
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Greenwich, CT
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 7 days of delivery.
- Hermes Paris Modernist 'Chain D'Ancre' Long Toggle Link Gold Modernist NecklaceBy HermèsLocated in Greenwich, CTCircle yourself in precious gold with this iconic Hermes Paris 'chain d'ancre' long toggle small link modernist necklace. Signed Hermes with French hallmarks. Wear it long or wrap...Category
Vintage 1970s French Contemporary Link Necklaces
MaterialsGold, 18k Gold
- Hermes Paris Gold 'Chain d' Ancre' Long Link NecklaceBy HermèsLocated in Greenwich, CTCircle yourself in precious gold with this iconic Hermes Paris vintage 'chain d'ancre' 32" link necklace. Wear it long or wrapped but, either way, you will wear it everyday. Sign...Category
Vintage 1980s French Modernist Link Necklaces
MaterialsGold, 18k Gold
- Hermes Paris Modernist Chaine d'Ancre Gold Toggle Small Link BraceletBy HermèsLocated in Greenwich, CTBold and uncompromising this Hermes Paris modernist 'chaine d'ancre' toggle medium link bracelet is the statement piece you have been searching for. With 15 links, this polished 18 k...Category
Vintage 1980s French Modernist Link Bracelets
MaterialsGold, 18k Gold
- Hermes Paris Modernist Chaine d'Ancre Gold Toggle Medium Link BraceletBy HermèsLocated in Greenwich, CTBold and uncompromising this Hermes Paris modernist 'chaine d'ancre' toggle medium link bracelet is the statement piece you have been searching for. With 11 links, this polished 18 ...Category
Vintage 1980s French Modernist Link Bracelets
MaterialsGold, 18k Gold
- Hermes Paris Vintage Gold Anchor Chain NecklaceBy HermèsLocated in Greenwich, CTIt is said that a chain is no stronger than its weakest link and this Hermes Paris vintage 18 karat yellow gold anchor chain is 35" of continu...Category
Vintage 1970s French Modernist Chain Necklaces
MaterialsGold, 18k Gold
- Hermes Paris Georges L'Enfant 'Chaine D'Ancre' Vintage Toggle Link BraceletBy HermèsLocated in Greenwich, CTCrisp and well executed this rare large size Hermes Georges L'Enfant Paris 'chaine d'ancre' vintage toggle link bracelet is the statement piece you have been searching for. With ten ...Category
Vintage 1980s French Modernist Link Bracelets
Materials18k Gold
- Vintage Hermès Diamond Chain Link Necklace Set in 18k Yellow GoldBy HermèsLocated in London, GBA rare vintage Hermès diamond chain necklace set in 18k yellow gold. The necklace is composed of 19 iconic Hermès ‘H’ motifs set alternately with twinkling little crosses. Each cro...Category
1990s French Modern Link Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Vintage Hermes Yellow Gold Link NecklaceBy HermèsLocated in Holland, PA18k Yellow Gold Vintage Link Necklace by Hermes. Details: Weight: 140.6 grams Chain Length: 15.5" Width: 13.5mm Stamped Hallmarks: Hermes 750 2S...Category
Vintage 1980s French Link Necklaces
MaterialsYellow Gold
- Hermes Chaine d'Ancre 1960s Yellow Gold Toggle NecklaceBy HermèsLocated in Feasterville, PAStep into the world of luxury with the Hermes Chaine d'Ancre Yellow Gold Toggle Necklace, a piece that perfectly encapsulates the brand's p...Category
Vintage 1960s French Chain Necklaces
MaterialsYellow Gold
- Hermes Ceramic Rose Gold Chaine d'Ancre Sautoir NecklaceBy HermèsLocated in Feasterville, PAThe Hermès Rose Gold Ceramic Sautoir Necklace is a striking piece of jewelry that beautifully merges the timeless elegance of Hermès with contemporary design elements. This exquisite...Category
Early 2000s Drop Necklaces
MaterialsRose Gold
- Vintage Cartier Link Yellow Gold Chain NecklaceBy CartierLocated in Holland, PA18K Yellow Gold Vintage Link Chain Necklace by Cartier. Necklace Details: Length: 15 3/4" Width: 11mm Weight: 123.8 grams Stamped Hallmarks: Cartier 750...Category
Vintage 1980s French Link Necklaces
MaterialsYellow Gold
- Antique Gold Chain Link NecklaceLocated in Denver, COMeasuring 22 inches long and weighing 26.29 grams, this antique Victorian golden chain link necklace is comprised of delicate navette-shaped openwork links embellished with an intric...Category
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Link Necklaces
Materials10k Gold, Yellow Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
The Hermès Passe-Guide Bag Might Not Be as Well Known as the Birkin or Kelly, But It’s Every Bit as Chic
Find out why this under-the-radar piece is so exceptional.
How to Spot a Fake Hermès Birkin Bag
The iconic Birkin bag is much coveted — and often copied. Find out how to tell the real deal from a convincing fake. Of course, you don't have to worry about this on 1stDibs, where every seller is highly vetted.