Items Similar to Early20thC ByzantineRedCrossPendant LampworkGlass Galalith SilverToggle Necklace
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 10
Early20thC ByzantineRedCrossPendant LampworkGlass Galalith SilverToggle Necklace
About the Item
Characteristic of the large chunky shapes including Byzantine-style crosses favored by French couturiers Gabriel "Coco" Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix for their costume jewelry, this mostly glass and galalith beaded necklace is dominated by a red marbled stone pendant. Capped with a black glass bead at the bottom, the large rough-cut cross bead is hand-wired to the necklace that features stations of five round beads, including swirled-copper lampwork glass and copper-painted galalith, between eight square tiger-striped lampwork glass beads.
We date the necklace to the early 20th Century given the use of white galalith for its smallest beads, which is visible with a loop around their holes where there is some copper enamel loss. Along with an unsigned decorative silver toggle clasp, these findings resemble those handcrafted by Parisian parurier Louis Rousselet, whose workshop since 1920 catered to French couture houses including Chanel to supply the finest decorative beads made of glass, galalith or metal for one-of-a-kind costume jewelry.
While we could not verify that Chanel added stone beads to her early glass-and-galalith necklaces, similar red-limestone crosses can be found inlaid in the floors of Italian ancient religious sites in Venice and Verona. Chanel, who enjoyed exploring such archeological wonders for inspirational artifacts, frequently visited those cities while she began creating couture costume jewelry by the mid-1920s to fully accessorize her clothing for clients. The necklace color-palette further suggests Byzantine-period beads that included hematite, gold, bronze and amber.
Although Chanel may be best known by costume-jewelry collectors for her Byzantine-style glass-adorned gilt metal crosses, she notably chose to be buried in a marble vault marked with a simple cross and five engraved lion heads symbolizing her lucky number and astrological sign--without glass decoration. So marble should not be overlooked as a luxurious material that Chanel loved and likely included in some of her unsigned early jewelry. More so, her favorite mid-century parurier Robert Goosens collected unusual stones on international travels that inspired some of the pendants in his jewelry for Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Madame Gres.
With no certainty as to who designed this unusual necklace, we have priced it for less than our other unmarked early-20th-Century costume jewelry with Rousselet findings that were easier to identify as Chanel or Miriam Haskell.
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:74 g
- Dimensions:Width: 2.25 in (57.15 mm)Diameter: 5.5 in (139.7 mm)Length: 16.5 in (419.1 mm)
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1925-1955
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Minor losses.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244219902882
About the Seller
5.0
Vetted Seller
These experienced sellers undergo a comprehensive evaluation by our team of in-house experts.
Established in 2012
1stDibs seller since 2022
9 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: <1 hour
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
More From This SellerView All
- Antique Amuletic DozenRockCrystals CagedRing MedievalStyle GiltBronze PendantLocated in Chicago, ILThis antique amuletic bronze framed pendant cages a dozen 7mm-diameter single-cut rock crystals that each feature a table-cut decagon crown, deep pavilion, 21 facets and uncut girdle, while the culets range from off-center to blunted. They are tightly set within four linked rings to overlap at the same angle in a sparkling single row. Seeming to retain a little of its original yellow-gold gilding on just the interior, the frame that surrounds each of the four sections of three crystals enables them to reflect pale-yellow-and-lime light when the pendant is viewed from certain angles. Suggesting French heritage, the Medieval Frankish culture in northern France made jewelry in similar segmented or openwork shapes of wheels or whorls, which were worn as gem-decorated disk-shaped brooches or gold-caged rock...Category
Antique 18th Century French Renaissance Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsCrystal, Rock Crystal, Gilt Metal, Bronze, Copper
- Unique MidCentury Handcrafted Hammered 6BrassWires SpiralsLoopsSquiggles PendantLocated in Chicago, ILThis vintage handcrafted brass-wire pendant was shaped and hammered into lively three-dimensional spirals, loops and squiggles with wrapped construction by an unknown 20th-Century st...Category
Mid-20th Century European Modernist Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsBrass
- French MidCentury Bazot 18KGoldPouredGlassEnameledPlaques SilverPendantsNecklaceBy Andree BazotLocated in Chicago, ILFeaturing French studio-artist Andree Bazot's signature technique of topping free-formed layers of polychrome enamels fused on textural foiled plaques with a dollop of poured glass a...Category
Mid-20th Century French Artisan Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsSilver, Enamel, Copper, Gold, 18k Gold
- ArtNouveau Carved Abalone 18K WhiteGold HighRelief Asymmetric Flora&Bird PendantLocated in Chicago, ILThis 20th-Century Art-Nouveau style 18-karat white-gold-plated highly textural pendant features a prong-set abalone that is carved into seemingly overlapping flower petals in lustrou...Category
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsPearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
- Antique ArtNouveau Tourmaline Gems & Lampwork Glass WhiteGold Filigree SautoirLocated in Chicago, ILEpitomizing the Art Nouveau movement, this antique post-1912 sautoir drop necklace with a white-gold openwork-and-wire pendant and filigree clasp features a rainbow of handcrafted gem beads--the largest of which are carved "Rose of France" and purple amethysts plus faceted-pink and beveled-aqua tourmalines--along with what appears to be lampwork glass...Category
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsTourmaline, Amethyst, Gilt Metal, Rhodium, Enamel, White Gold
- 1930s Schiaparelli Baretti GalalithRoseMotifFuchsiaGarland CordTiedBrassNecklaceBy Elsa SchiaparelliLocated in Chicago, ILWith 1930s findings in the distinct highly-textural and unusual-mixed-media style of French parurier Lina Baretti (1899-1994), who was a frequent designer of unsigned one-of-a-kind c...Category
Vintage 1930s French Artisan Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsBrass
You May Also Like
- ANGARA Natural 0.05cttw Diamond Infinity Heart Pendant in Platinum (H, SI2)By ANGARA INC.Located in Los Angeles, CADesigned with a hidden bale, this contemporary pendant features a heart frame that extends to form a stunning infinity. Shimmering diamonds partially accentuate the curves of this in...Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Platinum
- Vintage 1950s 32.00 Carat Diamond NecklaceLocated in New York, NYFinely crafted in 18k yellow gold and platinum with pave set Round Brilliant cut Diamonds weighing approximately a total of 32.00 carats. Circa 1950s 16 inches longCategory
Vintage 1950s Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
- M. Gérard Diamond Pendant Necklace / BroochBy M. GérardLocated in New York, NYA versatile pendant necklace/brooch, created by M. Gérard in France in 1970s. The necklace is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the side motif may be detached and worn as a brooch, an...Category
20th Century French Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold
- Collar de Oro y Diamantes años 60Located in BARCELONA, ESCollar Vintage 1966 en Oro con Diamantes, Opalo y Esmeraldas Diamantes en talla Brillante con peso 0,07ct. Opalo natural blanco en talla pera con un peso aprox. 3,00ct Esmeraldas ...Category
Vintage 1960s European Pendant Necklaces
- Vintage Christian NecklaceLocated in London, GBThis is a wonderfully crafted vintage 18ct yellow gold necklace. The pendant features two separately bordered portraits; one representing the Holy Sacred heart of Jesus Christ and th...Category
20th Century Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsGold, Yellow Gold
- 4.45 Carat Diamond Snowflake PendantLocated in London, GBHere we have a stunning snowflake pendant design crafted entirely from platinum. Delicate openwork detailing on the frame of the pendant depicts the unique elements of each and every...Category
Mid-20th Century Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsPlatinum
Recently Viewed
View AllMore Ways To Browse
Antique Jewelry Collectors
Antique Chanel
Antique Lion Jewelry
Antique Couture
Antique Chanel Jewelry
Venice Clothing
French Enamel On Copper
Ancient Antique Beads
1920s Bead Necklace
Antique Silver Bead Necklace
Saint Laurent Striped
Saint Laurent Easy
Antique Religious Pendants
Antique Christian Jewelry
Chanel Cross Jewelry
Antique Black Bead Necklace
Antique Black Beads Necklace
Large Stone Lions