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Trifari Alfred Philippe YellowGold HeavyChainTasselSautoir Textural DemiParure

About the Item

Signed "Trifari" with a crown and without a post-1955 U.S.-copyright symbol on all three matching pieces, this likely late-1930s highly-textured yellow-gold-plated demi-parure was designed by American Trifari's French-born head designer Alfred Philippe after he had honed his fine-jewelry craftsmanship while creating luxury parures for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. The set features a heavy tasseled eight-strand chain sautoir necklace and earrings with dropped fluted-ball pendants, With French-style signed clip fastening, the contrasting-texture two-inch-long earrings each have two twisted fluted round beads in different sizes, with the larger one capped at both ends with additional shapes and textures. On the necklace, this textural contrast is amplified with the inclusion of many chains. The decorative chain caps and ball beads are repeated throughout the huge five-inch-long tassel, whose larger distinct swirled-openwork inch-wide cap dangles 26 chains. The fine complex details of all parts of the purely metal demi-parure appear as if they were made by a talented goldsmith or bronze specialist with intricate chasing, durable lost-wax casting and careful gilt-surface finishing, which is why such vintage exceptional costume pieces by Philippe that resemble the finest precious-metal jewelry remain in high demand when in excellent condition like ours. We date this demi-parure as early as 1937 after the crown symbol was added to the brand signature and before WWII when sterling silver was used by Trifari during metal rationing.
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