Couture MartinMargiela 1998 WorkOnPaper & Artisanal Line0 WhiteLingerie BoxedSet
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: TU one size only (EU)
- Style:Contemporary Art (In the Style Of)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Material Notes:mixed media art as boxed limited-edition-of-two print and couture structural garment for anti-fashion upcycling
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244218126742
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
- Antique 1920-40 Surrealist Sculpture Unique Set Hammered SteelWire Female TorsosLocated in Chicago, ILThis antique Surrealist sculpture set of two one-of-a-kind female figurines was handmade in hammered steel wire with patina estimated as early as the 1920s. Each ribald three-dimensional self-standing torso study of a woman features either three spiral springs (suggesting pregnant belly with large breasts...Category
Early 20th Century Unknown Sculptures
- 1998 AFVandevorst FirstCollection Lingerie Boxed SheerBodystockingHosieryCatsuitBy A.F. VANDEVORSTLocated in Chicago, ILAs nostalgia for antique silk stockings repeatedly tapped for lingerie-inspired A.F. Vandevorst womenswear until its Belgian founding design duo retired their brand in 2020, the obso...Category
1990s Belgian Bodysuits
- ChristainDior Galliano 2001 MadeInFrance LaceNetCorset Black HalterBustier BoxedBy John Galliano, Christian Dior Haute CoutureLocated in Chicago, ILWhile John Galliano was creating haute-couture in Paris for French Maison Christian Dior as its artistic director beginning in the late 1990s, he designed this "Made In France" black stretch-lace-and-net low-back boned corset featuring a bold halter neck, padded underwire bustier with a rounded bustline silhouette, and cinched waist with a lettuce-edged ruffle. Along with leading couture-fashion designers Jean-Paul Gaultier and the late Vivienne Westwood, Thierry Mugler and Gianni Versace, Galliano is closely associated with the popularity of the contemporary corset, which was the focus of his most recent couture show in 2024 as the creative director of Paris-based Maison Margiela for the past decade. Notably, a Galliano corset from his turn-of-the-century Christian Dior collection--with like tags and similar low back with bustier--can be viewed online among the collections of the Underpinnings Museum, which is dedicated to the most outstanding lingerie. In addition to the tags noting "Christian Dior Made In France" along with the size, Galliano added subtle logo embroidery to the cleavage that reads "DIOR". There is no tag noting the materials of the multiple laces, tulle mesh, bones and additional padding or strap fabrics, which seem primarily synthetic for desirable stretch-to-fit. Instead, care-instruction symbols can be found on the back of the size tag. The neck straps for this B-cup French-size 85 or U.S.-size 34 can be adjusted to one of the three tiers of hooks that suits the wearer, while the corset has two tiers of hooks to cinch the waist. As worn by our small-size mannequin, the top will flatter even an A-cup breast size. As noted in our listing sidebar, the buyer will receive the corset packed in its original Christian Dior silver shoebox-size cardboard packaging, while the lingerie will be wrapped in the original logo tissue paper. The box and paper are in good condition without rips or perforation, while the lingerie is in like-new excellent condition as if it had only been tried on and not worn for an event. For price comparison, a later dated Galliano/Dior bustier corset top--with like tags but strapless--recently sold on 1stDibs for $6,200. The previous sole owner of our top recalled making their purchase as new lingerie in 2001. This French ready-to-wear complex-structure garment should not be confused with international lingerie lines with different but similar labels--"Christian Dior Intimates...Category
Early 2000s French Corsets
- McCartney 2003 Prototype LingerieLike Lace SilkChiffon Satin Black HaremPantsBy Stella McCartneyLocated in Chicago, ILAs lingerie-like runway Look 23 for her Spring/Summer 2003 collection from which we acquired this unreproduced hand-finished one-off prototype, British Stella McCartney debuted these...Category
Early 2000s British Petticoats
- MartinMargiela Early1990s UniqueUpcycled Garters&Crotch Velvet CroppedHalter BraBy Maison Martin MargielaLocated in Chicago, ILCaptured in a video still from his Fall/Winter 1992 collection fashion show in Paris, Martin Margiela uniquely upcycled the seam intersections from the crotch, dart or tuck on decon...Category
1990s French Bras
- LimitedEdition Vase AperitifGlass JeanNouvel 2002 Signed for French LiqueurSuzeBy DaumLocated in Chicago, ILAs a signed and 2002-dated limited edition, French architect and furnishings designer Jean Nouvel was commissioned to create this yellow-accented vase or aperitif glass for one of th...Category
Early 2000s French Vases
- SUSANNA HARDAGE Mannequin with Textile Assemblage, Coins and Costume JewelleryLocated in Milano, ITSusanna Hardage was one of the most active women in the search for a perfect emulsion between art and history. She tried in several works to place elements that aroused feeling in th...Category
1980s Italian Sculptures
- Lalique Swan Head Up Pure Crystal SculptureBy LaliqueLocated in Miami, FLMightychic offers a Lalique pure crystal satin finish coveted Swan Up sculpture. First designed in 1943 by Rene Lalique this ethereal swan is depicted gliding with her wings back an...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Sculptures
- Lalique Swan Head Down Pure Crystal SculptureBy LaliqueLocated in Miami, FLMightychic offers a Lalique pure crystal satin finish coveted Swan Head Down sculpture. First designed in 1943 by Rene Lalique this ethereal swan is depicted gliding with her wings ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Sculptures
- Lindsey B Balkweill Sculpture 80s Fashion Mannequin Head Home Decor OriginalLocated in Port Saint Lucie, FLAuthentic, vintage Lindsey B Balkweil Irmgard plaster sculpture, signed and dated 1984. An original sculpture from Lindsey B, featuring a deco-style head wi...Category
1980s British Sculptures
- Exceptional Vintage GUCCI Dog Sculpture in BronzeBy GucciLocated in FRAmazing and rare Authentic GUCCI Bronze Shape of a lying dog Vintage item from the 70/80's Made of Bronze Colorway: silvery "GUCCI MADE IN ITALY" engraved on the back paws Measurements: - Total Length around 22,5 cm (8,85 inches) - Height: 11,5 m (4,52 inches) - 9,5 cm at widest (3,74 inches) Weight: around 1400 grams Condition: Excellent. Original shape, no missing part. Blackened in places, needs cleaning. GUCCI clearly readable. No GUCCI packaging...Category
Late 20th Century Italian Sculptures
- Alexsander Danel Austin Productions Inc Orchide Sculpture AP3590 Fashionista 90sBy Alexsander DanelLocated in Port Saint Lucie, FLThis fabulous 30 inch sculpture of a high fashion woman was produced by Austin Productions and designed by Alexsander Danel in 1990. From our research, this piece is called ORCHIDE, likely from their high fashion collection. The piece stands appx 30in tall and the base is 10in wide. In very good condition for its 27+ years of age, we note some scratches, rubs and tiny dings here and there as you would expect from a vintage sculpture that has been handled, yet it still displays beautifully. Our price reflects this "less than pristine" condition. No paperwork or stickers on bottom, but signed at base AUSTIN PROD INC 1990 and A DANEL...Category
1990s American Sculptures