Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 12

Antique Amuletic DozenRockCrystals CagedRing MedievalStyle GiltBronze Pendant

About the Item

This antique amuletic bronze framed pendant cages a dozen 7mm-diameter single-cut rock crystals that each feature a table-cut decagon crown, deep pavilion, 21 facets and uncut girdle, while the culets range from off-center to blunted. They are tightly set within four linked rings to overlap at the same angle in a sparkling single row. Seeming to retain a little of its original yellow-gold gilding on just the interior, the frame that surrounds each of the four sections of three crystals enables them to reflect pale-yellow-and-lime light when the pendant is viewed from certain angles. Suggesting French heritage, the Medieval Frankish culture in northern France made jewelry in similar segmented or openwork shapes of wheels or whorls, which were worn as gem-decorated disk-shaped brooches or gold-caged rock-crystal sphere pendants. But gem faceting as we know it was not widely practiced until the 16th Century with advanced European lapidary tools, mostly in France and the Netherlands. As the single cuts on these crystals predate Baroque and brilliant rose-cuts, it could date to the 16th Century while rock crystal remained more popular in European pendants than diamonds. Among its collected decorative objects dating to the 1500s, TheMet museum notes in its online descriptions that during this century "rock crystal was priced at its weight in gold". Conservatively, the pendant could be from as late as the mid-18th Century during the Louis XV period when gilt bronze chandeliers with rock-crystal pendants were stylish. Like kinetic chandelier crystals, the pendant bail with jump-ring enables turning movement while dangling for maximum shimmer. Originally, it may have been worn as a single earring via a ribbon tied around the ear or hair, or sewn onto stiff fabric such as a hat. While it is unclear if there are specs on or in the crystals, as they can be individually rotated, they may be enhanced by a professional cleaning. An antiquity like this pendant may have motivated haute-couture fashion-designer Gabriel "Coco" Chanel's favorite fine-jewelry artist Fulco di Verdura to create his iconic mid-century gold-cage ring filled with smaller loose cut-gems. Earlier, the duo had traveled together exploring museum-collected European cultural artifacts, whose designs and materials inspired some of their best known works. The 21st Century "Caged Collection" of loose cut-gems--developed by the ongoing business of Verdura in homage to its founder--is the only jewelry that we could find that approximates the curvilinear-cage design of this antique crystal-filled pendant, while it has not reproduced one like ours.
More From This SellerView All
  • Trifari 1940s Philippe 4PieceParure CrystalFloraMotif GoldNecklaceEarringsBrooch
    By Alfred Philippe for Trifari
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In the late 1940s, Trifari's French-born artistic director Alfred Philippe, who had earlier created fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, designed this flora-motif crystal...
    Category

    Mid-20th Century American Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Crystal, Diamond, Gold, Gold Plate, Yellow Gold

  • 16thCentury Renaissance SilverRepousse Romantic Engagement Pendant Or HatBadge
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This early-16th-Century Renaissance period silver-repousse round medallion pendant features a romantic encounter in a rural landscape between a man and smiling woman wearing European-nobility fashion, including a men's feathered hat, tights and sword. A silversmith was commissioned by this unknown man to make the pendant as a hat badge to promote his affectionate nature, which is conveyed by the welcomed gestures between the adult couple, who stand cheek-to-cheek and hand-in-hand. As there is a church in the distant landscape, this may have been his wedding-engagement announcement. It is worth noting that romantic love via marriage was a rarity before the 18th Century. The tragic romantic Italian legend of Romeo and Juliet was first translated into English for publication in 1562--several decades before Shakespeare turned it into a famous play about a deadly consequence of separating lovers. The pendant medallion is framed with a filigree-like inward-curving bezel and a flat metal backplate, while its bail enables it to be pinned as a brooch or strung on a necklace. A perfect engagement or wedding gift for a man or woman who loves antique...
    Category

    Antique 16th Century French Renaissance Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Silver, Gilt Metal

  • Couture CocoChanel Byzantine ThePurpleHeart PearlAmethystQuartz GoldMedallion
    By Chanel
    Located in Chicago, IL
    During the ArtDeco period when Gabriel "Coco" Chanel was at her peak as a Parisian couture fashion-designer in the early 1930s, this antique one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed and gilt-chain medallion brooch with trombone clasp was commissioned to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (without a brand stamp until the 1950s), its artistic origin is most likely from ornate organic-form sketches by her favorite parurer Fulco di Verdura. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These include the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese military-cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. This bright yellow-gold brooch suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone jewelry, which otherwise featured linear geometric designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are wired to a Baroque-motif open-work frame that dangles another gem surrounded by a thick gilt-rope halo. Notably, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls above her chest and surrounded by a golden halo seems to be the inspiration for this brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely-undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in NYC. After he retired in 1973, the brand continued to operate without him with different owners. Given the duo's designs that played with historic and military references, Chanel's couture commission for this purple medallion may have been sparked in the early 1930s when the internationally-new...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Brooches

    Materials

    Amethyst, Pearl, Quartz, Gold, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold

  • MiriamHaskell 1930s FrankHess TripleSeashell RussianGilt Flora WoodLeaf Brooch
    By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This early Miriam Haskell lacquered-shell and brass-decorated clip brooch was created by Frank Hess, her first designer since 1926. The 1930s brooch features three seashells supporti...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s American Baroque Revival Brooches

    Materials

    Gold, Base Metal, Brass, Gilt Metal

  • Antique Art&Crafts FiligreeGoldFill ScrollingTwisted DanglingHearts Shell Brooch
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Epitomizing the organic subjects and hand-craftsmanship spanning the Arts-&-Crafts to Art-Nouveau movements that were led in The United States by Louis Comfort Tiffany, this gifted o...
    Category

    Antique Late 19th Century American Arts and Crafts Brooches

    Materials

    Chalcedony, Coral, Turquoise, Gold-filled

  • Black Tahitian Pearl Dutch DroogDesign 1998 Unique ThirdNipple GoldDisk Brooch
    By Artistian Made
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In the 1990s when the Dutch collective Droog introduced international leaders of late 20th-Century functional art such as Ron Arad, Marcel Wanders, Jurgen Bey, Hella Jongerius, and Tejo Remy, the Netherlands-based brand was one of the most successful producers of conceptual design. The collaboration was co-founded in 1993 in Amsterdam by the jewelry and product designer Gijs Bakker (b. 1942), who commissioned his protege French artist Frederic Braham in 1998 to create this one-of-a-kind brooch for his young Droog-represented jewelry line "Chi ha paura...?". The Italian phrase means "who is afraid of?". This natural satin-lustre South Sea black-Tahitian 15 x 10 mm baroque thick-nacred pearl, which is bezel-set in oxidized sterling on a sharp silver stud for push-back fastening as a lapel or tie pin, is surrounded by a removable textured gold disk brooch with the Chiapaura maker's mark, artist's signature, abbreviated year and assay symbol. Notably, while farmed pearls from this French-Polynesian region are scarce, it is rarer to find one over 12mm. This dark gray one is also exceptional for its desirable secondary tone of peacock green with minimal surface imperfections. From normal use, the unseen back of the disk is missing chips of ecru enamel where it contacts the fastening knob. This reveals that the disk is solid gold. Like other functional conceptual design represented by Droog, the brooch is more than a beautiful piece of fine jewelry featuring multiple contrasting elements, as it could be a provocative "third nipple" if worn on a tie or scarf. Given the Dutch origin of the brand, we recall the famous 15th-Century oil-painting by Johannes Vermeer, known as "Girl with a Pearl Earring". Who is afraid of girl or boy with a third nipple? We acquired this brooch from a jewelry collector who had purchased it from the Italian gallery...
    Category

    1990s Dutch Artist Brooches

    Materials

    Black Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Pearl, Gold, Silver, Mixed Metal, Sterling...

You May Also Like
  • Harry Winston Diamond Cluster and Pear Shaped Emerald Drop Brooch/Pendant
    By Harry Winston
    Located in New York, NY
    Finely crafted in platinum with Pear Shaped and Marquise cut diamonds weighing a total of 11.31 carats. The brooch/pendant features a Pear Shaped Colombian Emerald weighing 4.04 cara...
    Category

    Vintage 1960s Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Diamond, Emerald, Platinum

  • Victorian Natural Burma Ruby, Diamond and Pearl Pendant, 1880s
    Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
    An important Victorian pendant with a ruby, diamond and a pearl, 1880s. The big centre stone is a rare natural and not heat treated Burmese ruby weighing 4.32 carats, certified by a ...
    Category

    Antique 1880s Victorian Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, Silver

  • Orange Coral, Rose Gold, Dragonfly Shape Brooch/Pendant Necklace
    Located in Marcianise, Marcianise (CE)
    SHIPPING POLICY: No additional costs will be added to this order. Shipping costs will be totally covered by the seller (customs duties included). PS: THIS POLICY IS NOT APPLICABLE ...
    Category

    Late 20th Century Italian Retro Brooches

    Materials

    Coral, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

  • Diamonds, Sapphires , Engraved Face on Coral, Rose Gold/Silver Pendant/Brooch
    Located in Marcianise, Marcianise (CE)
    SHIPPING POLICY: No additional costs will be added to this order. Shipping costs will be totally covered by the seller (customs duties included). PS: THIS POLICY IS NOT APPLICABLE ...
    Category

    Vintage 1950s Retro Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

  • Diamonds, Yellow Sapphires, Red Coral Drops, Gold Silver Pendant Necklace/Brooch
    Located in Marcianise, Marcianise (CE)
    SHIPPING POLICY: No additional costs will be added to this order. Shipping costs will be totally covered by the seller (customs duties included). PS: THIS POLICY IS NOT APPLICABLE ...
    Category

    Vintage 1950s Retro Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, Yellow Sapphire

  • Diamonds, Red/Orange Coral, Rose Gold and Silver Brooch or Pendant Necklace
    Located in Marcianise, Marcianise (CE)
    SHIPPING POLICY: No additional costs will be added to this order. Shipping costs will be totally covered by the seller (customs duties included). PS: THIS POLICY IS NOT APPLICABLE ...
    Category

    Late 20th Century Italian Retro Brooches

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Recently Viewed

View All