154 Asscher Cut Diamond

Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.

The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.

However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)

While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.

Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.

A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.

Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Rings have been symbols of devotion since the days of Ancient Greece, a practice later adopted by the Romans for marriage ceremonies. Bridal rings were given an official meaning by Pope Nicholas I in the year 850 as proving a man’s intent to marry his bride-to-be. Antique sapphire and diamond bridal rings continue to hold meaning for many couples today.

Precious stones sometimes adorned these early engagement rings and bridal rings, which were usually gold bands. Diamond engagement rings and diamond bridal ring sets weren’t the dominant choices until 1947 when De Beers popularized them with their “A diamond is forever” marketing campaign.

Recent trends in jewelry design have seen the rise of diverse gems and metals in bridal rings. Rubies, sapphires and other colorful precious gems have quickly gained favor with brides who want a unique and vibrant bridal ring.

Modern bridal ring styles can be breathtaking and break traditional trends, while vintage engagement rings harken back to this rich heritage of design. Featured on 1stDibs is a stunning array of bridal rings from world-famous jewelers including Tiffany & Co., Roman Malakov and Antinori Fine Jewels.