Elgin 18 K
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Mid-20th Century American Art Deco Wrist Watches
14k Gold, Gold-filled
A Close Look at art-deco Jewelry
Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.
The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.
However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)
While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.
Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.
A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.
Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Some Elgin watches can be worth as much as $5,000 because of their make, model and age. In most cases, though, Elgin watches sell in the $200-$500 range.
- Are Elgin watches valuable?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMay 17, 2024Yes, Elgin watches are valuable. The American watchmaker’s timepieces are widely favored by collectors all over the world. Watch lovers won’t likely pay more than a few hundred dollars for a vintage model, while rare Elgin timepieces, especially Art Deco-era wristwatches sporting gold cases, will fetch much higher sums. Whether or not an antique Elgin watch is a good investment, however, will depend upon factors such as rarity, condition, materials and more.
The Elgin National Watch Company was founded in Elgin, Illinois, in 1864 and was at one time the largest manufacturer of watches in the United States. In 1867, Elgin introduced its first watch — a pocket watch.
In the late 1800s, the open-face pocket watch became a staple on the American railroad. It was a requirement for railway workers to wear a pocket watch, as the timepieces were responsible for keeping conductors on schedule. This was a boon to the watchmaking industry, with companies like Hamilton, Elgin and the Waltham Watch Company producing high-grade and workingman’s watches. So-called “railroad watches” were among the finest watches of the era, and Elgin railroad watches are coveted today by watch enthusiasts.
As vintage watches of all kinds are making a comeback — even watchmakers such as Patek Philippe, Breitling and Omega are reissuing mid-century models — Elgin watches are in high demand on the secondary market.
At 1stDibs, we believe in buying what you love. Our shopping experience enables discovery and learning, whether you are a seasoned connoisseur or just beginning your collection. Buyers should keep in mind that the value of any investment is subject to fluctuation, and any investment decisions should be made according to the guidance of a financial advisor.
Find vintage and antique Elgin watches on 1stDibs. - 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021It depends on the materials that the watches are made with, the significance of the model and the year of production. Railroad pocket watches can range from $200 to $5000.