Onyx And Pink Earrings Ella Gafter

Even before Ella Gafter founded her namesake jewelry collection in 1982, she was a formidable presence in the jewelry industry.

As a Rome-based gem dealer, Gafter sold pearls and precious stones to retailers and jewelers but was often dissatisfied with how they made use of the rare materials she worked so hard to source. Instead of grousing, she decided to design jewels that would do them justice, focusing primarily on pearls — akoya, Tahitian and South Sea. She explains her fascination with the lustrous marine treasures simply: “Every woman looks better with pearls than without.”

Her daughter Talila Gafter, then an undergrad at Harvard, was her ally in getting the project off the ground. Together, they made the rounds to stores with Ella’s first efforts. “We had a little pouch with eight pieces and we sold everything,” Talila tells 1stDibs. After graduation, she “was involved one hundred percent” in building the company, whose pieces are handmade by master jewelers in Naples.

The designer insists that her unwavering focus is the source of her success. “There’s no compromising for me,” she says. She’s been known to replace the pearls in a single piece time after time until she’s certain she’s achieved her ideal result. “A pearl you have to respect,” she explains. “You have to put it where it wants to sit.”

Ella describes the collaboration with her daughter as a “partnership,” with each having her own domain. “I’m all fantasy; Talila is the concrete one,” she says. The company is now based in New York City, with Talila as its president while Ella is firmly at the helm of creative decisions. “I’ve never made a design suggestion to Ella,” says Talila. “Nobody does.”

That forbearance has been earned, says Talila. “I admire that Ella doesn’t take no for an answer, her tenacity, her extraordinary ambition. She believes as long as there is life, there is a lot of beauty to create. She’s a force of nature.”

Find Ella Gafter earrings, rings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Earrings have a rich, diverse history, and while there are many types of this accessory to choose from, the dangle style is one of the most enduring designs. Today antique and vintage dangle earrings are timeless adornments that can make any outfit instantly more glamorous.

One of the oldest known pairs of dangle earrings was made of jade between 7,500 and 8,200 years ago in Inner Mongolia. Hoop earrings — of which there have been countless variations — are as old as Ancient Mesopotamia, and Ancient Egyptians wore dangle earrings that had sacred symbolism as part of their jewelry practices. In ancient Rome, dangle earrings with pearls and other precious materials were popular.

Dangle earrings vary in length, but they are all designed to cascade off the ears. Some dangle earrings barely fall past the bottom of the earlobe while others fall low enough to graze the shoulders or even fall past them. During the Renaissance period, women wore up-do hairstyles so they could show off their dangle earrings. Even noblemen joined the trend, donning a sole dangle earring adorned with a pearl.

Georgian women preferred heavy girandole earrings that featured candelabra-like arrangements of precious metal and stones. Dangle earrings in the 19th century were simpler, often featuring a single suspended gemstone in a drop-earring style. Going into the 20th century, screw-back earrings and clip-ons became popular, leading to more minimal stud designs. However, dangle earrings have always come back into fashion.

Whether they are made with diamonds, beads or feathers, dangle earrings are statement pieces reflecting the shifting styles over the years. Find the perfect antique and vintage dangle earrings for any occasion on 1stDibs.