Puiforcat Bucket

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.

While early utensils were often shaped from clay, wood or bone, silversmiths later crafted flatware from precious metal. In the 19th century, mass production of electroplated flatware made silver utensils accessible to the middle class. Now, antique and vintage silver, flatware and silver-plate objects for dining and the home are heritage pieces reflecting this history of design.

Silver spoons were so prized in 15th-century England that people would travel with the valuable utensils. Forks in the 17th century were frequently made with steel and likewise only available to the upper class. Silver flatware continued to be produced in small workshops in the 18th century and was a luxury reserved for the elite. When George I came to the throne in 1714, the silver dining service — including plates, dishes, soup tureens, chargers and sauceboats — became all-important.

Innovative manufacturing techniques such as the electroplating process in the 19th century would transform silversmithing with industrialization. Sheffield plate was used from 1750 to 1880 and involved a fusion method to fabricate everything from knife handles to serveware. French industrial chemist Henri de Ruolz discovered a gilding and silver-plating process for metals in 1841, with the silver-like results so celebrated that Napoleon III ordered a 3,000-piece flatware set. The expansion of table service in the Victorian era also led to an increasing number of flatware and serving pieces in a canteen, or cutlery chest, all with specific uses, from toast forks to butter picks.

While affordable metal flatware is widely available today, historic brands including Gorham Manufacturing Company — whose legendary contribution to the history of silver making started in 1831 — and Christofle continue the tradition of silver and silver-plate flatware.

Browse 1stDibs for both antique and contemporary silver, flatware and silver-plate objects in a range of elegant designs to enhance your dining table.