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Antique NativeAmerican LeatherBraidedSeamsStrapsNeckline Sleeveless Hide Dress

About the Item

This antique Native American brown chamois suede leather sleeveless chemise dress, which was handmade during the "reservation era" between 1870-1930, is made from two soft supple animal hides producing a slightly irregular hem length. In lieu of ornamentation with other organic materials, thin leather-strand whipcords are intricately braided to construct the threadless side seams, neckline, and shoulder straps, whose ends are knotted so they will not unravel. The minuscule holes for weaving the strands were likely made with a porcupine quill, as the beaver-like animal is indigenous to North American wooded areas. The neckline is a deep V-shape in the back where the shoulder straps are narrower. The tightly tied straps appear like they could be adjusted to suit large breasts or a longer torso. The size is comparable to a US 4, while it could also fit a larger size if body-shape has slim waist/hips. There are some natural imperfections in the soft hand-tanned leather, while it is in good condition to comfortably wear versus merely display. Given the small amount of decoration on this dress, it was a non-ceremonial piece made for and worn by a teenage Native American. Both women and men wore animal skin clothing in cooler weather, so this dress may also have been worn under a long-sleeve tunic/shawl/cape and over leggings. In the Western U.S., the Navajo and Hopi are known for their intricate leather braiding to artistically assemble objects, which can still be found in their contemporary jewelry such as for bolo ties or belts. The most similar antiques that we found at the National Museum of the American Indian were made circa 1909-1927 by the Kiowa, Washoe, Apache, Sioux, Plain Cree, Comanche, Ute, Warm Springs, Blackfoot, Nez Perce, Slavey, and Assiniboine. We obtained this dress from a non-Native- American owner, who bought it in the late-20th Century from a former Santa Fe-based antique dealer who specialized in American tribal objects. The East Coast collector had met the dealer after they were vetted for independent exhibition at the leading annual armory-located antique shows in New York City. We have found similar dresses with far less intricate braided decoration, as well as in poor condition, that are sold by Americana specialists for upwards of $12,000. Like the 20th-Century couture and fine fashion that we offer, this handmade dress in a timeless style is likely to increase in value if kept in good condition.

Dimensions:

Marked Size: 4 (US)

Style:

Native American, western fringe (In the Style Of)

Place of Origin:

United States

Period:

Early 20th Century

Condition:

Wear consistent with age and use.

Seller Location:

Chicago, IL