Rare Issey Miyake Metal Sculpture Oversize Pleated 80s 70s Vintage Dress Gown
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 39.77 in (101 cm)Marked Size: One size. Marked size: medium. (NA)Bust: 32.68 in (83 cm)
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:PARIS, FR
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU2771221921212
Issey Miyake
From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: PARIS, France
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- André Courrèges Tapeze Logo Monogram 70s 80s 90s Square Neck Large Black DressBy André Courrèges, CourrègesLocated in PARIS, FRTrapeze dress by André Courrèges! White logo on the front. Square neck. Iconic Courrèges look! 2 huge front pockets. There is a matching jakcet, the jacket is sold separatly! VERY G...Category
1980s Italian Formal Wear
- Iconic Moschino PEACE and STOP WAR Vintage 1990s 90s Blue Bird Pigeon Robe DressBy MoschinoLocated in PARIS, FRIconic 1990s Moschino ' PEACE 'Dress. This is one of Moschino's most poignant dresses in bright blue emblazoned on the front in large black letters the word "PEACE" on a white background divided horizontally into gradated segments alternating with blue segments which have a dove, symbol of peace, screened onto them. A sleeveless body skimming dress...Category
Early 2000s Italian Evening Dresses
- Thierry Mugler Blue Green Tweed Wasp Waist Bee Belt Runway Top Blazer JakcetBy Thierry MuglerLocated in PARIS, FRPanel cut-out dress by Thierry Mugler! With shoulder pads. 2 pockets at the hips, wasp waist, it empashize your curves :) Graphite / metal color. The fabric is "stripped", the surf...Category
1990s Evening Dresses
- Moschino Flower Floral Couture Vintage Black White Large Cheap and Chic DressBy MoschinoLocated in PARIS, FRFlower optical dress by Moschino! Your head is the top of the flower and your body is the flower stem. Cheap and Chic vintage line! VERY GOOD condition! The armpit has discoloratio...Category
Early 2000s Italian Evening Dresses
- Pleats Please By Issey Miyake Limited Guest Artist Cai Guo-Qiang Jacket DressBy Issey MiyakeLocated in PARIS, FRA rare and coveted Pleats Please by Issey Miyake dress from the collaboration with Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang, Guest Artist Series No. 4, 1998. It can be worn as a dress or a jacket. The mind-boggling process of creating the design by sprinkling gunpowder onto the patterns and evoking a detonation is shown in the YouTube video above (an even more prolonged and more detailed version here). Asymmetrical cut, pleated throughout. Bat look shoulders and sleeves! 100% polyester. Made in Japan. A dress of this series is held by the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute archives. They state: "Miyake launched the Pleats Please Guest Artist Series in 1996. For the fourth collaboration in the series, Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang used gunpowder explosions to burn images of dragons, a Chinese symbol for life, onto a group of finished white garments. To produce the line, Miyake adjusted the images for printing on flat fabric before cutting, sewing, and pleating." Kerry Taylor...Category
1980s Evening Dresses
- Thierry Mugler Peacock Bird White Gown Couture Pants Jacket Ensemble SuitBy Thierry MuglerLocated in PARIS, FREmboidered birds and peacock feathers. You can touch the 3D feathers :) Mugler button. LIKE NEW! condition. SIZE Medium. Please, read the measurements. JACKET Medium. No size labe...Category
1990s Trouser Pant Suits
- Lilac & Multicolor Patbo One-Shoulder Floral Print Dress Size US 0Located in New York, NYLilac and multicolor floral print one-shoulder tiered ruffle dress by Patbo. Belt at waist. Zip closure at side. 26" bust, 24" waist, 51" length.Category
21st Century and Contemporary South American Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Emilio Pucci Blue Silk DressBy Emilio PucciLocated in Paris, FREmilio Pucci blue silk jersey printed dress featuring an iconic geometric print, a front gathered detail. Composition: 100% silk Estimated size IT42/38fr/US6 /UK10 Made in Italy. In...Category
1990s French Cocktail Dresses
- 1980s A J Bari Vintage Silver Evening Dress w Puffed Gathered Sleeves & PocketsBy A.J. BariLocated in Portland, ORWe love this vintage A. J. Bari vintage dress from the 1980's. The dress is in a silver abstract pattern fabric and it has a gently pleated skirt, gather...Category
1980s American Evening Dresses
- Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2003 Corset Bustier Bra Bodycon Hook and Eye Black DressBy Dolce & GabbanaLocated in Naples, FLDolce & Gabbana Corset Bustier Bra Bodycon Hook and Eye Black Dress IT 38Category
Early 2000s Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Gianfranco Ferre Favorite Avant Garde Beaded Blue Evening Dress NEWBy Gianfranco FerréLocated in Los Angeles, CAGianfranco Ferre's highly architectural avant garde creation, designed with an art deco influence, is truly unique and imaginative in an amazing innovative and structurally breathtak...Category
Early 2000s Evening Dresses
- 1984 Yves Saint Laurent Floral Silk Runway Dress w Black Velvet TrimBy Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Portland, ORThis iconic Yves Saint Laurent dress is in a fine floral silk in shades of dove grey and pink on a black background with black velvet trim at the cuffs, yoke and over the shoulders. ...Category
1980s European Day Dresses