Schiaparelli Haute Couture Harlequin, 1939 by Jean Schlumberger
About the Item
- Creator:
- Style:Art Deco
- Place of Origin:France
- Period:Early 20th Century
- Date of Manufacture:1930
- Condition:Excellent.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: AU12011526410
House of Schiaparelli
From her signature color Shocking Pink to her collaborations with Surrealist artists, the boldly original Elsa Schiaparelli transformed fashion with her haute couture house Maison Schiaparelli from the late 1920s to the early ’50s. Experimenting with elements like trompe l’oeil images and colorful visible zippers, the Italian designer instilled a provocative avant-garde artistry in her clothing and accessories, including those created with Salvador Dalí, such as the lobster dress and a hat shaped like a shoe.
Born in Rome, Schiaparelli was a rebellious child who grew up among the city’s intellectual elite. She had a voracious appetite for reading and became interested in ancient cultures, astronomy and world religions. Schiaparelli studied philosophy at the University of Rome, and after publishing a collection of poems on love and sensuality that so mortified her conservative parents that they tried, unsuccessfully, to confine her to a Swiss convent, she left for London.
A quick marriage to Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor brought her to New York, but it would be in Paris following her divorce that Schiaparelli embraced her artistic passions. She moved to the French capital city in 1922 with her young daughter and happened to meet master couturier Paul Poiret, who loaned the stylish Schiaparelli his clothes, sparking her own fashion interests.
Schiaparelli opened her modest atelier in Paris and debuted her first collection of knitwear in 1927, and later that year, she designed a black-and-white pullover hand-knit wool sweater featuring a trompe l’oeil bowknot that captured the attention of the fashion world. Vogue called it “an artistic masterpiece.” The success led to her moving her house to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935 where thousands of garments were produced each year.
Schiaparelli’s knitwear collections were later accompanied by revolutionary swimsuits and other clothing and accessories. Her inventive designs would include culottes — a radical statement in the 1930s when women still could cause a scandal by wearing pants — as well as printed fabric, such as the 1938 Tears dress with a print designed by Dalí making it appear as if the evening gown had been savagely ripped.
Schiaparelli was among the first designers to use materials like rayon and Lurex as well as explore wrap dresses and transparent raincoats. She also introduced unisex fragrances and brought her artistic partnerships into jewelry, such as bronze brooches made with Alberto Giacometti and fur-lined bracelets with Méret Oppenheim. As she wrote in her 1954 autobiography Shocking Life, women should “dare to be different.”
Despite her acclaim, her shop closed in 1954 after a tumultuous time during World War II. By then, fashion had moved on with Christian Dior's New Look, and the closure of Schiaparelli's business coincided with a comeback mounted by Coco Chanel, her archrival in the early days.
In 2006, Italian businessman Diego Della Valle acquired the brand and its archives, and the Maison Schiaparelli was reopened in 2012, back at 21 Place Vendôme where Schiaparelli's fearless and enduring work began.
Find vintage Maison Schiaparelli clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: New York, NY
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Haute Couture Shocking Pink and Blue Schiaparelli Kings Ribbons Bow BroochBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYElsa Schiaparelli: "I gave to pink, the nerve of the red, a neon pink, an unreal pink, Shocking Pink" Yves Saint Laurent: Schiaparelli's pink was "an aggressive, brawling, warrior pink” Elsa Schiaparelli's "Shocking" Pink was a color which derived from a 17.27 carat rose colored Cartier diamond known as the Tete de Belier, belonging to her friend and client, Daisy Fellowes. Shocking Pink was used for the eponymous perfume "Shocking", which was launched in 1937. The packaging was designed by artist Leonor Fini and the bottle was based on Mae West's curvaceous figure. Her first shoe-hat, designed for her autumn 1937 collection, had a Shocking Pink heel. Salvador Dali loved the color so much he used it for one of his own works, “an enormous stuffed bear...Category
Early 20th Century French Art Deco Brooches
- House of Schiaparelli Retro Style Tassle Demi ParureBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli's costume jewelery of the 1950's continued the leit motifs from her pre-war and post-war couture collections. Nature,art, ethnic cultures and influences such as surreali...Category
Vintage 1950s American More Jewelry
MaterialsGilt Metal
- House of Schiaparelli Faux Topaz and Citrine Chandelier EarclipsBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli's costume jewelery of the 1950's continued the leit motifs from her pre-war and post-war couture collections. Nature,art, ethnic culture...Category
Vintage 1950s American Chandelier Earrings
- Schiaparelli Haute Couture Aqua and Enamel Cuff, 1930'sBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli Haute Couture Cuff from the late 1930s of bezel set open back oval "aquamarines" set against a contrasting ground of black enam...Category
Early 20th Century French Art Deco Cuff Bracelets
- House of Schiaparelli Multicolor and Iridized VariStone EarclipsBy House of SchiaparelliLocated in New York, NYSchiaparelli's costume jewelery of the 1950's continued the leit motifs from her pre-war and post-war couture collections. Nature,art, ethnic cultures...Category
Vintage 1950s American Clip-on Earrings
- Schiaparelli Haute Couture Pine Cone Necklace, Jean SchlumbergerBy Jean SchlumbergerLocated in New York, NYImportant Haute Couture Pine Cone Necklace made by Jean Schlumberger for Schiaparelli. "Schiaparelli is above all the dressmaker of eccentricity. Has she not the air of a young demo...Category
Early 20th Century French Art Deco Choker Necklaces
- David Webb Platinum 40.00 Carat Old Cut Diamond BroochBy David WebbLocated in New York, NYOf particular interest and rarity this David Webb mid-century floral brooch enhanced old-cut diamonds mounted moustly in Platinum with just a few yellow gold petal accents. Total car...Category
20th Century American Modern Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
- Emilio Jewelry Gia Certified 41.00 Carat Natural Fancy Color Diamond BroochBy Emilio!Located in New York, NYFrom The Museum Vault at Emilio Jewelry Located on New York's iconic Fifth Avenue, Showcasing a very special and rare butterfly brooch hand made by Emilio Artisans, specializing in bringing out the maximum potential of each and every natural fancy color diamond. We specialize in creating special mountings for color diamonds that will increase the color and bring it out the maximum potential of the center. center: over 5ct Gia certified shield additional natural green pink orange diamonds...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Brooches
MaterialsPink Diamond
- Emilio Jewelry Multi Color Flower BroochBy Emilio!Located in New York, NYFrom the vault at Emilio Jewelry Located on New York's iconic 5th Avenue, Main Stone: Sapphire over 1.70 carat Blue (Cornflower Blue), Pink 2.00 + carat, Tsavorite 1.11 carat, Tsavor...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Brooches
- Enamel, 14 Karat Yellow Gold Retrò BroochLocated in Marcianise, Marcianise (CE)SHIPPING POLICY: No additional costs will be added to this order. Shipping costs will be totally covered by the seller (customs duties included). PS: THIS POLICY IS NOT APPLICABLE ...Category
Antique Early 1800s Italian Retro Brooches
MaterialsGold, 14k Gold, Enamel
- Deco Platinum Brooch Set with 1.0ct of F/VS Baguette + 1.5ct of Round DiamondsBy UnbrandedLocated in London, GBDeco Platinum Brooch Set With 1.0ct of F/VS Baguette + 1.5ct of Round Diamonds. Additional Information: Total Weight: 12.1g Total Diamond Weight: 2.50ct Diamond Colour: E/G Diamond ...Category
20th Century British Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Platinum
- StickpinLocated in Orimattila, FIAccording to the picture. I don't know what material. It's old.Category
Mid-20th Century Unknown Early Victorian Brooches