1920s Clip-on Earrings

Stamped "Made In France" on their antique brass back-plates like the initial unbranded couture costume-jewelry commissioned by French Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel beginning in 1924, these floral-motif wired earrings with early handcrafted brass clips are decorated with button-like cultured mother-of-pearls mixed with Parisian organically-coated lampwork glass, which we photographed in indoor sunlight for the most accurate colors. The pair were designed by Chanel to accessorize a one-of-a-kind clothing ensemble (likely including cultured-pearl buttons and a brooch) for a client of this pearl-associated couturier whose earliest one-of-a-kind jewelry--unlike other 1920s fashion designers--sometimes mixed real and faux gems. The intricate glass artistry, wired clustered arrangement and earring findings are characteristic of one of Chanel's first Parisian paruriers, Louis Rousselet, who was a lampwork master with a workshop since 1920 specializing in faux-pearl glass beads and wire-work construction. As the three-piece flat-brass lever clips without hinge-holes on both sides predate Rousselet's wire-horseshoe clips, they can be dated like the patinated well-worn brass hardware to the mid-1920s. The beads of various sizes and ecru colors that are wired to each earring include five round graduating iridescent mother-of-pearl disks, along with lampwork glass replicating nine baroque pearls, five round pearls and two seed pearls. There are natural imperfections on the green-and-rose-reflecting cultured pearls, while there is some nacre-enamel loss on the glass beads that is not eye visible. On closer view, one of the central round glass beads has a lighter blister, which appears like the texture of some uncultured pearls. Of note, Chanel did not include a brand signature on any of her couture costume jewelry prior to the mid-1950s. As many of her clients who came to Paris for their couture-clothing fittings were foreign, the coordinated unique jewelry that was expected to leave the country was merely stamped "Made In France" or "France". We acquired these earrings in The States along with a similar set with less but larger "petals, berries and leaves", which we priced the same in a different listing despite the slightly greater size and weight of this pair. So we know that they both were created for a single commission of multiple unique earrings with like lampwork-glass shapes and findings to be paired with the ecru mother-of-pearls provided by Chanel. While we have acquired over a dozen pre-signature pieces commissioned by the founder, these are the earliest earrings that we have discovered by Chanel. We have never found a single match to contradict our recognition of her early couture creations nor to attribute them to another designer. Further, Art Deco couture...

Marked "Made In France" on their antique brass back-plates like the initial unbranded couture costume-jewelry commissioned by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel since 1924, these beaded early-handcrafted-clip earrings are arranged with wire in a floral motif featuring button-like mother-of-pearls accented by smaller pieces of lampwork glass with an ecru organic coating that mimics pearl nacre. The pair were designed to accessorize a one-of-a-kind clothing ensemble (likely including cultured-pearl buttons and a brooch) for a client of the pearl-associated French couturier whose earliest jewelry--unlike her fashion-designer peers--sometimes mixed real and faux gems. The glass artistry, clustered arrangement and earring findings are characteristic of one of her Parisian paruriers, Louis Rousselet, who was a lampwork master with a workshop since 1920 specializing in faux-pearl glass beads and wire-work assembly, along with other decorative elements. Since the three-piece flat-brass lever clips without hinge-holes on both sides predate Rousselet's wire-horseshoe clips, they can be dated like the patinated brass hardware to the mid-1920s. The beads of various sizes and shades of white that are wired to these earrings include four round graduating iridescent mother-of-pearl disks, along with lampwork glass replicating four baroque pearls, three round pearls and two seed pearls. There are natural impurities present on the green-and-pink-reflecting cultured pearls, while we can clean dust from the coated-glass crevices upon request. Of note, Chanel did not include a brand signature on any of her couture costume jewelry prior to the mid-1950s. As many of her clients who came to Paris for their couture-clothing fittings were foreign, the coordinated unique jewelry that was expected to leave the country was merely stamped "Made In France" or "France". We acquired these earrings in The States along with similar pair with additional but smaller "petals, berries and leaves" from the same Rousselet commission. Further, Art Deco couture...

Early 20th Century "Noucentisme Period" Turquoise, Seed Pearls, Rose cut Diamonds Earrings mounted in 18 Karat Yellow Gold. ("Noucentisme" Catalonia 1914 -1936) Wonderful example of the Noucentisme jewelry exquisitely handcrafted pair cabochon turquoise, rode cut diamond and seed pearl earrings. 18K gold with silver views, rose cut diamonds, 0.22 carats approx., 4 mm diameter cultured seed pearls and oval cabochon cut turquoises. Length: 1 inch. Total weight: 13.2 grams "Noucentisme" Catalan cultural movement of the early 20th century that originated largely as a reaction against Modernisme, The artists of ªNovecentisme" develop literature, painting, architecture, sculpture and jewelry (Ramón Sunyer i Clará,, Jaume Mercadé i Queralt. Fuset y Grau...

Art Deco Diamond Sapphire latter modified into earclips, top are of solid Platinum, ear back clips are 18 KT white gold Approx. 8.40 Ct of midnight Blue natural untreated Sapphires –...

Art Deco Mauboussin Ruby & Diamond Earrings Made circa 1920 A pair of platinum earrings each set with 1 old European cut diamond, 1 baguette cut diamo...

Beautiful Antique Art Deco 18K White Gold Opal and Diamond Wreath Earrings. This beautiful pair of earrings are crafted in 10k and 18k white go...

vintage pear shape diamonds! Vintage pear shapes are very hard to find, and this is a particularly beautiful pair with charming, broad base...

Since 1920, Parisian costume-jewelry glass-master Louis Rousselet was among a handful of paruriers favored by the leading French couture houses, primarily Chanel. Beyond the stamped ...

These endearing pair of diamond cluster earrings date back to the artistic Art Deco era. Set to centre of each earring is a 0.70 carat old cut with smaller eight cut diamonds surrounding in the daisy halo. The eight cut diamonds total to 0.15 carat in each earring. The central diamonds are H-I in colour and VS-SI in clarity. Beautiful original platinum screw back clips...

A pair of Art Deco jade, ruby and diamond earrings, set with jadeite jade carved Chinese phoenix birds, on eight-cut diamond set branches, with c...

Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin 18 karat yellow gold ear clips, marked T&HM Cabochon rubies of approximately 3 carats, round-cut diamonds of 0.60 carat Dimensions: width 2 cm, length ...

Antique 5.50 Diamonds Total Carat Weight Earrings and Pendant Necklace Set 14k. The diamonds total weight for both earrings and pendant is 5.50 carat. The diamonds are very high qua...

These vintage earrings from the Victorian era are perfect for non-pierced ears. The earrings have a beautiful floral design. The details for these gorgeous earrings are listed below: 1 Set Metal Quality: Sterling SIlver Earring Type: Clip On Studs Earring Measurements: 20 millimeters Post Type: Screw Back Clip...

A stunning antique jewelry suite set with 8.18 carat white opal and 0.98 carat diamond, crafted in 9 karat white gold and platinum; part of ou...

Bakelite earrings from the 1920/30s Pair of earrings in bakelite and chrome with coral coloured elements; renewed clips Width: 5 cm Height: 1 cm De...

These gorgeous leaf earrings are modelled in 9ct gold and have a diamonds measuring 5pts on each one. The earrings are clip on and the face of them are gorgeously glossy! Leaf Dimen...

Antique Ancient Roman Coin Sapphire Cabochon Earrings. The earrings measure 24.55 X 31.14mm and approx weight 19.5 grams 14k. The earrings are bold and...

A fine and important pair of Art Deco Natural Saltwater Pearl and Diamond Earclips, ca. 1920s. The earrings are very beautifully made in the design of the lily of the valley flower. ...

Art Deco platinum and 14k yellow gold Burma ruby and diamond clip on earrings accompanied by an AGL report. These ear clips feature 20 mixed shape unheated Burmese rubies weighing a...

A very rare and wonderful necklace and matching earrings, set in a soft gilt metal, with amethyst glass faceted cabuchons set all over, tapering to a screw clasp at the back of the n...

New York Made Dress Clips with enamel work on the hinges Item Details: Metal Type: 18 Karat White Gold and Yellow Gold Weight: 27.4 grams Diamond Details: Shape: Antique C...