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Erte - Romain de TirtoffL'Aurore boréale by Erté1917
1917
About the Item
Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 Russian-French
L'Aurore boréale(The Aurora Borealis)
Signed "Erté" (lower right)
Inscribed ---- (en verso)
Gouache on paper
In this colorful gouache, Erté draws an enticing and unique fashion design on his model's elegantly elongated figure. Crowned by an elaborate headdress, the woman wears a daring gauzy caftan that drapes dangerously low, celebrating her nude form. EntitledL'Aurore Boréale" or The Aurora Borealis, this work embodies the Art Deco glamour for which the artist's designs are so beloved. This ensemble was inspired by Les Fleurs du mal, the famed volume of poems from iconic French writer Charles Baudelaire. As the name suggests, this creative design links the celebrated "fleur" orchids with one of nature's other great marvels, the Aurora Borealis. This refined piece of art radiates the essential luxury and theatricality that could only be accomplished by Erté, oft referred to as the "Father of Art Deco."
First published in 1857, Baudelaire's Les Fleurs du mal was controversial for its suggestive content and themes of decadence and eroticism. The volume provided a wealth of inspiration for Erté and he drew from several themes to create original fashion sketches and designs. L'Aurore Boréale showcases the breadth of Erté's creativity and his design expertise. The structural headpiece mimics the curing petals and elongated stamen of an orchid, while the sunburst of colors recalls the kaleidoscopic hues of the northern lights. The design is delicate yet erotic, harkening to the themes of Baudelaire's "Flowers of Evil." Creative and bold, Erté's artistic interpretations of Baudelaire's words showcase his clever imagination and sophisticated point of view.
Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city's bustling nightlife. Erté's expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper's Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the "Father of Art Deco," Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
Painted 1917
Paper: 10 5/8" high by 7" wide
Frame: 17 1/4" high by 14 1/8" wide by 5/8" deep
Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024
Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans
- Creator:Erte - Romain de Tirtoff (1892 - 1990, Russian)
- Creation Year:1917
- Dimensions:Height: 17.25 in (43.82 cm)Width: 14.125 in (35.88 cm)Depth: 0.625 in (1.59 cm)
- Medium:
- Movement & Style:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Gallery Location:New Orleans, LA
- Reference Number:
Erte - Romain de Tirtoff
Erté, Romain de Tirtoff, (1892–1990) was a Russian-born French artist and designer who is equally famous for his elegant fashion designs and his artwork, both of which capture the art deco period in which he worked. Diversely talented, Erté was born in Saint Petersburg to a distinguished family with roots tracing back to 1548. After moving to Paris, he secured his first substantial contract with Harper's Bazaar magazine, and thus launched an illustrious career that included designing costumes and stage sets. Between 1915–1937, Erte designed over 200 covers for Harper's Bazaar, and his illustrations would also appear in such publications as Illustrated London News, Cosmopolitan, Ladies' Home Journal, and Vogue. Erté flourished and was renowned in an array of fields, including fashion, jewelry, graphic arts, costume and set design for film, theater, and opera, and interior decor.
After designing apparel for the French dancer Gaby Deslys, Erté went on to design costumes, program designs, and sets which were featured in the Ziegfeld Follies of 1923, many productions of the Folies Bergère, and George White's Scandals. On Broadway, the celebrated French chanteuse Irène Bordoni wore Erté's designs. His delicate figures and sophisticated, glamorous designs are instantly recognizable, and his ideas and art still influence fashion into the 21st century.
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