Hermès unusual toile de jouy cotton dress. circa 1960s
About the Item
- Designer:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: 8 (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Measurements Bust: 44inch/91.5cm Waist: 26inch/66cm Shoulder: 16.5inch/42cm Sleeve:14.5inch/36.9cm Total length: 44.7inch/121cm.
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU917110039532
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.
- Louis Feraud red and tartan moiré evening dress, Circa 1980By Louis FeraudLocated in London, GBThis Louis Feraud dress is constructed from a silk-like moiré polyester material. Worn with a patten leather belt.Featuring a round neckline, long sleeves and fitted bodice. The ful...Category
1980s French Evening Dresses
- Pierre Balmain silk faille ivory cocktail dess, c. 1960sBy Pierre Balmain, Pierre Balmain Boutique ParisLocated in London, GBBalmain began his post-war career at the atelier of Lucien Lelong, where he worked alongside both Dior and Hubert de Givenchy. He is nown for his classic and elegant designs. His mastery of tailoring skills helped him to created with simplicity and fluid elegance. This Demi-couture Balmain cocktail dress incorporates the house’s well known mastery of tailoring and traditional techniques of classic couture. This beautiful cocktail dress is constructed from a luxurious silk faille material from the Lyon silk...Category
1960s French Cocktail Dresses
- Jean Patou silk gold top and natural linen Maxi-skirt evening ensemble, c.1970sBy Jean PatouLocated in London, GBIt is impossible to think of the history of French fashion without referring to Jean Patou. With contemporaries such as Edward Molyneux, Lucien Lelong...Category
1970s Maxi Dress
- Balmain silk cocktail dress covered with embroidered pineapple motif, circa 1950By Pierre Balmain Boutique Paris, Pierre BalmainLocated in London, GBThis Balmain cocktail dress incorporates the house’s well known mastery of tailoring, embroidery and traditional techniques of classic couture. Tight bodice and full skirt. Per...Category
1950s French Cocktail Dresses
- Pierre Balmain silk evening dress with stylised flower motifs, circa 1970By BalmainLocated in London, GBThis couture finished dress is constructed from a luxurious silk material from the Lyon silk weaver Bianchini-Férier. Featuring a fuchsia, orange and saffro...Category
1970s French Sheath Dresses
- Christian Dior hand printed silk evening blouse. circa 1970sBy Christian DiorLocated in London, GBDior is synonymous with excellence. The importance of the house’s history and cultural legacy invests a Dior garment with fashion that tells a story. Femininity, simplicity and good...Category
1970s British Blouses
- 1960s Bernetti Citrine Silk Opera Coat & Dress Ensemble w Extravagant BeadworkLocated in Gresham, ORA fabulous Bernetti 1960s 2 piece evening ensemble: Citrine silk opera coat and column dress with extravagant hand-sewn beadwork and rhinestone embroi...Category
1960s American Evening Gowns
- F/W 2006 Look #55 VERSACE NUDE SEQUIN EMBELLISHED LONG DRESS GOWN 42 - 6By VersaceLocated in Montgomery, TXBRAND NEW VERSACE DRESS F/W 2006 Look #55 Finalee gown! This dreamy Versace creation is the perfect blend of romance and fashion-forward style. Size 42 or US 6 100% silk M...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Evening Gowns
- Max Mara Pianoforte Dress and BoleroLocated in London, GBA pretty outfit by Max Mara, Pianoforte Line. In a peach/pink colour and silk / cotton mix the dress has a round neckline , back central zip and cap sleaves. Size UK 10 , measuremen...Category
2010s Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Animal printed cocktail dress with beaded details Blugirl by BlumarineBy Blumarine, BlugirlLocated in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FRAnimal printed cocktail dress with beaded details. Fabric composition: 100% rayon Invisible zip on the left side. SIZE 42 (It) 38 (Fr) but more likely fit SCategory
2010s Italian Cocktail Dresses
- 1950s Heiress Boutique Dusky Pink Beaded DressLocated in London, GBThis lovely Heiress 1950s fine crepe occasion dress in dusky pink is pretty, gamine and features some gorgeous design details. The classic hourglass silhoue...Category
1950s British Evening Dresses and Gowns
- John Galliano for Christian Dior Silk Slip Dress FW 2003By Christian DiorLocated in London, GBVintage John Galliano for Christian Dior Fall Winter 2003 pink paisley slip dress. Features spaghetti straps, side button closure and midi length...Category
Early 2000s French Evening Dresses and Gowns
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
The Hermès Passe-Guide Bag Might Not Be as Well Known as the Birkin or Kelly, But It’s Every Bit as Chic
Find out why this under-the-radar piece is so exceptional.
How to Spot a Fake Hermès Birkin Bag
The iconic Birkin bag is much coveted — and often copied. Find out how to tell the real deal from a convincing fake. Of course, you don't have to worry about this on 1stDibs, where every seller is highly vetted.